Re: The Portuguese in Ceylon
DESCRIPTION OF THE PORTUGUESE FORTRESSES AND SETTLEMENTS IN CEYLON. AS NARRATED BY PORTUGUESE CAPTAIN JOÃO RIBEIRO
Written by Marco Ramerini
COLOMBO: The city of Colombo, the main city of today's Sri Lanka, was founded by the Portuguese. The first Portuguese attempt to settle in Colombo was done in 1518, when the Viceroy Lopo Soares de Albergaria, landed at Colombo with a large fleet. Here the Portuguese soldiers began to build a small fort named Nossa Senhora das Virtudes or Santa Barbara. This first fort was a triangular in shape surmounted by a central tower. It had short life, because the Sinhalese soon besieged the fort, and around 1524 the Portuguese were forced to dismantle it.
The second attempt was made in November 1554, Duarte de Eca with 500 soldiers built a new fortress in Colombo. So, November 1554 can be fixed as the date of birth for the city of Colombo. In July 1565, the Portuguese decided to transfer the Court and the capital of the Kingdom of Kotte to Colombo, thus Kotte was abandoned.
"Columbo, from being a small stockade of wood, grew to be a gallant city fortified with a dozen bastions; it is true these were six-sided after the ancient fashion, and of small size, but they were conveniently situated." "Its artillery consisted of two hundred and thirty-seven pieces of three kinds, from ten up to thirty-eight pounds, all mounted."
The town, "is situated on a bay capable of holding a large number of small ships, but exposed on the northern side; and its line of circumvallation stretched over one thousand three hundred paces." "On the Punta do Recife, which is to the south, there was a large breastwork named Santa Cruz, provided with the heaviest kind of artillery; this commanded and defended the whole of the harbour.
From here the open city extended to the south through what was know as the Galvoca which on account of the ridge of rocks required no ramparts; at the end of this and right on the sea was a bastion. The ditch commenced at its foot and ran on with a new rampart and another bastion called Mapane, where there was a gate with a drawbridge, the two continuing side by side till they reached the lake, being finished off by the bastion of St. Gregorio. From the sea up to this point was the best fortification which the city had, and it was in no way inferior to that of the lake itself, which encircled it for a distance of four hundred paces and was more than two leagues in circumference and abounded with crocodiles. One hundred paces beyond this bastion was another alongside of a large house and a powder factory."
"From here there started a brook which traversed the middle of the city, and was provided with two bridges. A low wall ran down side by side with the lake till it reached the bastion of St. Hieronimo, where the lake ended. In the middle of this stretch rose the bastion of Madre de Deus; beyond was the Porta da Reina, and close ti it the bastion of St. Sebastiao, from the foot of which there started a moat which was continued past the base of the bastion of St. Estevao and finished at the gate and bastion of Sao Joao with another drawbridge. This was the most northerly point of the city, and from here a strong stockade of pointed beams ran along the shore as far as the sea. At this point the bay opened and there was a handsome breastwork in front of the college of the Society; beyond lay the bastion of the Custom House, and so the rampart ran till it finished with the breastwork of Santa Cruz."
"There were in the city nine hundred families of noble settlers and more than one thousand five hundred of various handicraftsmen and tradesmen, all within the walls; two parishes, the Mother Parish and that of Sao Lourenço; five convents of the religious orders, those of Sao Francisco, Sao Domingos, St. Augustinhos, that of the Capuchins, and the College of the Fathers of the Society (Jesuits), who held classes in Latin and Morality; the house of Santa Misericordia, and a Royal Hospital, with seven parishes outside the walls."
GALLE: "The fortress of Galle was built on a point of land with the sea on two sides; on the north was a steep line of rocks, and there it had no other defence. On the south side was the bay, protected by a palisade of pointed beams; while a line of ramparts with its moat and three bastions cut across the land side from sea to sea, with a gate and drawbridge in the middle; the position was well protected with this fortification." Galle, during Portuguese time "was merely a fortress" and not a city as Colombo, inside the fortress lived two hundred and sixty two families of Portuguese and six hundred of various handicraftsmen, the Captain of the garrison, the Adjutant and a parish priest. As Colombo, Galle too had the house of Santa Misericordia, the Hospital, the Custom House and also a convent, that of Sao Francisco.
CALITURE: "Caliture, was a very small fortress built on a hill at the mouth of a river of the same name." "It had two small bastions with four iron cannon, a garrison of one company of infantry, a chaplain and magazine of stores and ammunition"
NEGOMBO: "Negumbo, had a Captain with some invalids soldiers; was a square enclosure of stone and mortar with two redoubts both of which were small and plain, with five iron cannon, a chaplain, and a magazine of stores and ammunition."
MALWANE: "Malvana, stood on the bank of the river about three leagues from Columbo, and was also small with a square redoubt, not protected on the flank" Malvana, had its Captain, a chaplain, and a garrison of soldiers; there were also a church, and a magazine of stores and ammunition.
BATTICALOA: "Batecalou, was built on a point of land and protected a bay capable of receiving vessels with high sides. It was a square structure with four bastions of acient design armed with a dozen iron cannon, and ita garrison consisted of a Captain and fifty soldiers with twenty settlers, a condestable, a chaplain, a church and a magazine of stores and ammunition"
TRINCOMALE: "Trequimale, was a triangular fortress with three bastions carrying ten iron cannon, built on a hill at a point of land adjoining the sea, close to the Baia dos Arcos. A Captain was in charge of it with fifty soldiers, and there were also a condestable, sixteen settlers, a chaplain, a church and a magazine of stores and ammunition"
JAFFNAPATAM: "Jafanapatao, a quadrangular fortress, had fout bastions and four half-moons or cobelos in the middle of the line of ramparts, all of which were built of pumice stone" (maybe coral stone). "In Jafanapatao, resided the Governor, the town was one side outside the walls of the fort and there lived "three hundred families of Portuguese, and seven hundred of handicraftsmen, with the Convents of Sao Francisco and Sao Domingos, the College of the Society, the Mother Church, the House of Santa Misericordia and the Hospital. Two leagues away, at the mouth of the channel, was a fort with good artillery and garrisoned by a company of infantry. The full number of men for the defence of Jafanapatao was two hundred Portuguese forming six companies, with some native Lascarins"
MANNAR: The fort of Manar, was built on the island of the same name and the territory pertinent to Manar comprised also the lands of Mantota on the main island. "It was a very small fortress, four sided, with two small redoubts on the two opposite angles overlooking the strait. It had no garrison of infantry, but stretched alongside of it was a settlement of one hundred and fifty families of Portuguese and two hundred of handicraftsmen; a Captain also resided here"
MENIKKADAVARA: (Dissava of Four Korales) Menikkadavara, was situated in the Four Corales and was the main camp base for defending the Seven Corales and for opposing the Kandian Kingdom, the walls of the camp were made of earth. "Manicavare, was further the residence of the Dissava"...."who always had in hand in time of peace three or four thousand Lascarins with their officers, which number could be greatly increased in the event of war" The Portuguese forces stayed in Menikkadavara "consisted of twelve companies of three hundred and fifty Portuguese soldados under the command of the Captain Major of the field, and there were also a Sergeant-Major, two Adjutants, a Captain of Munitions and a Franciscan monk as chaplain"
SABARAGAMUWA: (Dissava of Sabaragamuwa) "In Sofregao there was another camp controlling all the territory as far as the frontiers of Uva; this consisted of four companies of one hundred and fifty Portuguese infantry under the command of the Dissava of the district, with an Adjutant, a Franciscan monk as chaplain, and four or five thousand well-equipped Lascarins" Also the walls of this camp were made of earth.
MATARA: (Dissava of Matara) The Dissava of Mature district resided at Mature, "with one company of infantry, a Franciscan monk as chaplain, and three or four thousand Lascarins"...."His jurisdiction extended as far as the frontiers of Uva and Batecalu and along the sea-shore up to Columbo"
SEVEN CORALS: (Dissava of Seven Korales) The fourth Dissava, was that of the Seven Corals, ha was at the head of a company of infantry, three or four thousand Lascarins, and a chaplain. "His jurisdiction extended from the frontiers of Candia and Matale as far as the mountain of Grudumale"
BELIGAO: Another camp with earth walls was at Beligao.
Portuguese forts in Ceylon
Description of the Portuguese Forts and Settlements in Ceylon, as narrated by Captain João Ribeiro. Ribeiro narrative of Portuguese fort in Ceylon (Sri Lanka)
Re: The Portuguese in Ceylon
REMAINS OF DUTCH AND PORTUGUESE BUILDINGS IN SRI LANKA
Written by Marco Ramerini
NORTHERN SRI LANKA
JAFFNA
The Portuguese built in 1560 the fortress of Nossa Senhora dos Milagres. Jaffna was the last place in Portuguese hands in Ceylon, they lost it in 1658. The Dutch strengthened the fort about in 1680. The old Dutch fort, of considerable size, with its ramparts, bastions and gateways was still in good preservation before the civil war. Within it was the Governors residence and the Dutch church (Kruys Kerk or Grooteker) dated 1706 inside there were beautiful tombstones. In the Jaffna peninsula there are (or better there were) the remains of several Portuguese-Jesuits churches at Chankanai (1641), Atchuveli, Myliddi, Vaddukoddai. A Dutch church is (was?) at Chundikuli.
* I don't know the actual situation of the Dutch and Portuguese remains in Northern Sri Lanka, if some one has photos or information on the actual situation I'll be happy to receive and publish.
MANNAR
The fort was built by the Portuguese in 1560, they surrendered to the Dutch on 22 February 1658, the fort was rebuilt by them in 1686. On 5 October 1795 the Dutch surrendered to the British. The fort has four bastions and it’s still in good condition. In the village of Karisal (13 Km West of Mannar) there are the remains of the walls of a Portuguese church.
TRINCOMALEE
The Portuguese were the first to build a fort here, they in 1623 destroyed an ancient Hindu temple and at its place built a fort. This fort was taken by the Dutch on 2 May 1639. The Dutch strengthened this fort in 1658 and called it Fort Pagoda (today fort Frederick). This fort is still in good preservation. At the beginning of XVIII century Fort Oostenburg was built on a hill East of the entrance to the inner bay. Later also a battery was erected on the island "Dwars in de wea". Of this fort are a few ruins. In the village of Nilaveli (North of Trincomalee) there is an old Dutch two storied building, the roof of which had crumbled.
BATTICALOA
This fort was built by the Portuguese in 1628 and was the first to be captured by the Dutch (18 May 1638). It’s the most picturesque of the small Dutch fort of Sri Lanka, it’s situated in an island, still in good condition. Near Batticaloa the Portuguese had a tiny fort at Tanavare (there is a map of it). No remains.
Map of Northern Sri Lanka with Dutch and Portuguese remains
KALPITIYA or CALPENTYN
A five-bastion Dutch fort was built in 1667 it’s still in good preservation, inside the fort there are the remains of an old Portuguese-Jesuits church.
ARIPPU
A small fort build by the Portuguese in proximity of the pearl-banks, was took by the Dutch after the fall of Mannar. No remains ?
MULLAITTIVU
This fort was built by the Dutch in 1715 was originally a small wooden structure, in 1721 a quadrangular fort of earth-work was erected. The English rebuilt it. No remains ?
KODDIYAR or COTIAAR
The Dutch had here, in the first years, a small out-post; this out-post was strengthened in 1658. No remains ?
DELFT
This island was called by the Portuguese ilha das Vacas, they had a fort here. There are two ruined forts in this island. That on the eastern sea shore is the Portuguese small fort or "tranqueria" only two ruined walls survive, the other fort was probably built in more ancient times. I don't know the actual situation of this fort.
KAYTS
A Portuguese fort with four circular bastions, was took by the Dutch that made no attempt to restore it. Remains (at Velani)?.
HAMMENHEIL
This fort stands in a tiny island at the entrance to Jaffna lagoon. Here the Portuguese built a fort called Fortaleza do Cais dos Elefantes, in March 1658 was took by the Dutch. The fort has only one entrance and was garrisoned by 30 men. It’s still in good condition (?).
KANKESANTURAI or CANGIANTURE
The Dutch originally intended to establish here the capital of the Jaffna commandement, they begun to build a fort here but then they changed theirs minds. No remains.
PUNT DE PEDRO
Small fort built originally by the Portuguese, rebuilt by the Dutch. No remains.
POONERYN
This fort is situated South of the Jaffna lagoon. A quadrangular fort with two bastions, probably built originally by the Portuguese. It’s fairly well preserved (?).
ILPECARWE
A Dutch fort north of Mannar. No remains. FORT PYL Fort Pyl plan A strategic Dutch fort, a raised rampart is all that is left of it (?).
FORT BESCHUTTER
A strategic fort built by the Dutch near the village of Koyilvayal, this little fort it’s in very bad condition.
FORT ELEPHANT PAS:
A strategic Dutch fort, it‘s the best preserved of the three small forts in the northern shore of the lagoon in the Jaffna peninsula. I don't know the actual situation of this fort.
SOUTHERN SRI LANKA
COLOMBO
Colombo was the capital of Portuguese Ceylon and here the Portuguese built several churches (Sao Francisco, Sao Paulo, Sao Domingo, Sao Lourenço, Capuchins, the Sé Matriz or cathedral etc.), many houses, an hospital, a misericordia, many convent, a custom house (Alphandenga) etc.. The old Portuguese town was encircled by walls and bastions. The first fort (called Santa Barbara) was built in 1518 but in 1524 it was abandoned. In 1554 a new fort was built and the city of Colombo developed. The Portuguese town was destroyed by the Dutch during the siege in 1655-56 of the Portuguese churches only that of Sao Francisco survived and was used by the Dutch like Dutch reformed church until 1749 then it was demolished. The Dutch rebuilt Colombo and strengthened its bastions. In 1870 the Dutch fort of Colombo was demolished by the English. The old Portuguese and Dutch fort it’s disappeared, only the wall of a bastion remain. The best example of a Dutch house in Colombo is the building of the Dutch period museum that was built in the latter part of 17th. century. Outside the fort there was and there is the Wolfendahl church; it’s a massive cruciform building, built by the Dutch in 1749, on the site of the Portuguese church of "Agua o Agoa de Lupo" it’s the most interesting of the few remains in Colombo of the Dutch period. Several tombstones of the Dutch Governors (Hertenberg, Vreelandt, Van Eck, Falck, Van Angelbeek) and Burghers are here. In the vicinity of the church there is the old Dutch belfry. The residence of the Dutch Governors is in front of the Colombo harbour, this building was converted into a church (St. Peter’s church) by the British in 1804.
GALLE
It was not till the Portuguese occupation that Galle rose to importance, they fortified it at the end of XVI century (around 1589) and called this fortress Santa Cruz, but notwithstanding this Galle was conquered by the Dutch on 13 March 1640. It was the principal port of the island under the Dutch, they greatly strengthened the fortifications. Galle was the capital of Dutch Ceylon from it’s conquest (1640) till the conquest of Colombo in 1656. The old Dutch Government house dated from 1687. It’s the best preserved of the VOC fortress in Ceylon with beautiful ramparts, bastions and gateways. Galle is a fortified Dutch city, many are the old Dutch houses, a beautiful Dutch church dated 1752-54 is still in use, its walls are full with many tablets and family coats of arms in this church there are also interesting old tombstones.
MATARA
The fort was built by the Portuguese about 1550 but the actual fort was built by the Dutch when they took Matara, after the capture of Galle. The remains of the fort (a rampart and a gateway) are in good preservation. Inside the fort there are several old Dutch houses and a church with gravestone on the floor dated from 1686. After the Matara rebellion in 1761-1762, a beautiful fort called redoubt "Van Eck" was built in 1763-1765, on the right bank of the river. This fort is the unique star shaped fort in Ceylon, over the gate of the fort is the Dutch coat of arms. It’s still in good preservation.
Map of Southern Sri Lanka with Dutch and Portuguese remains
NEGOMBO
The fort was built by the Portuguese at the end of XVI century, it wasn’t a strong fort but was important for the defense of Colombo. The Dutch took the fort by storm on 10 February 1640 but on 9 December 1640 the Portuguese succeeded in retaking it. Negombo was finally in Dutch hands in January 1644. In February 1796 the English occupied it. There are some remains of the walls and an arched gateway of this fort. Opposite the fort is an ancient Dutch cemetery with 9 monuments of the Dutch period.
KALUTARA or CALITURÈ
The fort was built by the Portuguese, was conquered by the Dutch on 15 October 1655, in 1677 the Dutch remodeled the fort, in February 1796 this fort was occupied by the English. There are a few remains of the walls of this fort.
MENIKKADAWARA
The Portuguese had here in the 1590s a fortified base camp. Earthwork remains.
ARANDORA
The Portuguese had here a fortified base camp. No remains.
BALANE
The Portuguese had here for a few years a strategic fort and an outpost on the way to Kandy. No remains.
SABARAGAMWA – RATNAPURA
The Portuguese had here a fortified outpost. Here there is a little Portuguese church with a Portuguese stone slab on a wall.
KATUWANA or CATTOENE
This fort was built before to 1697, in 1761 was destroyed by the Kandyans. It's now a beautiful restored fort.
MALWANE The Portuguese had here in the 1590s a fortified base camp. No remains.
ANGURUWANTOTA or ANGURATOTA
In the years of the war with the Portuguese the Dutch erected here a strong stockade fort. No remains.
HANWELLA or GURUBEWILA
Hanwella Fort plan A stockade was built here by the Portuguese at the end of XVI century. The Dutch built a strong fort at the end of XVII century. Disappeared, only the traces of the old moat of the fort are visible.
SITAWAKA or AVISSAVELLA
This fort was built by the Portuguese in 1595 it was a small fort on the top of a low hill; the Dutch in 1675 built a strong fort with four bastions in another hill north of the old Portuguese fort. In 1685 this fort was abandoned. Disappeared, only a few traces are visible.
RUWANWELLA
The Portuguese had here in the 1590s a fortified base camp. In 1665 the Dutch built here a wooden fort, this fort was abandoned by the Dutch a few years after its construction. The English built here in 1817 the actual fort with two bastions.
PANAMA, YALA, MAGAMA
The Dutch had, for a short time, military posts also in these places. No remains.
THE DUTCH WATERWAYS
The Dutch waterways are by now fallen into disuse, but there is a project to restore them. In the Dutch time they were very useful for the trade and connected Colombo to Negombo; Colombo to Kalutara; and Negombo to Chilaw, Puttalam and Kalpitiya. Also at Galle, Matara and Batticaloa the Dutch built canals.
Remains of Dutch and Portuguese buildings in Sri Lanka. Dutch and Portuguese remains, the forts, the churches. Archeological remains in Sri Lanka: The Dutch and the Portuguese Forts, Churches and Waterways in Ceylon (Sri Lanka)